While there are so many reticle options out there, and it can be overwhelming to understand all of them. This is the FC DMX reticle guide for beginners.
Please note that this guide only serves as a 6th grade level material to help you understand what this reticle is designed to do.
FC-DMX Reticle In a Nutshell
The FC-DMX is a crosshair inside your scope that helps you aim at targets at different distances or in windy conditions. It looks like a “Christmas tree” with dots and lines (called stadia lines) below and beside the center dot.
It's a Fancy aiming "cookbook" (takes effort, but you can make it work with any ammo).
These lines are measured in MRAD (like inches for angles), which help you adjust your aim without moving the scope’s dials.
MRAD / MOA Breakdown
MRAD (Milliradian) is a unit of measurement for angles. Think of it like a ruler in the sky!
1 MRAD ≈ 3.6 inches at 100 yards. So, if you see a line marked “1” on the reticle, it means “aim here for a target 3.6 inches lower than your bullseye at 100 yards.”
Stay in MRAD: Don’t worry about converting MRAD to inches or yards. Just use the numbers on the reticle to hold “high” or “left/right” (like video game crosshairs).
Example:
Shooting a target at 427yd? Calculate you need 6.2 MOA of hold. Use the 6 MOA line and guess the extra 0.2.
How to Use the Stadia Lines
Example: If you zero your rifle at 50 yards (bullseye hits the center dot):
- The “1” line might = 150 yards.
- The “2” line might = 250 yards.
But this depends on your bullet’s speed and drop, again this is NOT a bullet drop compensator.
BDC reticles have markings that correspond to specific distances. They're usually calibrated for a particular cartridge or bullet type.
So if you're using the right ammo, the marks should align with bullet drop at certain ranges. But if you use different ammo, the BDC might not be accurate.
Steps to Figure It Out:
Use a Ballistic Calculator (free apps like Hornady Ballistics or Shooter):
- Enter your bullet type, speed (get a chronograph or use box data), and scope height (measure with a ruler from bullet to scope center).
- The app will tell you how many MRAD to hold for each distance.
Match the Calculator to Your Reticle:
- If the app says “At 300 yards, hold 2.5 MRAD low,” use the “2.5” line on your reticle.
Example:
Bullet: .308 Winchester 175gr (BC = 0.505)
Speed: 2,600 fps (from chrono or box)
Zero: 100 yards
Calculator says:
500yd = 10.5 MOA hold.At the range:- You shoot at 500yd but hit 2 feet low (24 inches).
- Since 1 MOA at 500yd = 5 inches, 24” ÷ 5” = 4.8 MOA.
- You actually needed 10.5 + 4.8 = 15.3 MOA (then update your DOPE card!).
Make a DOPE Card
DOPE = Data Of Previous Engagements (your cheat sheet!). This cost money and time to create for yourself.
Write down distances and the MRAD hold for each (e.g., “300 yards = 2.5 MRAD”).
Test it at the range to make sure it’s accurate.
Windage (Left/Right Holds)
The FC-DMX has horizontal lines on the sides of the crosshair. Use these for wind:
- If the wind is pushing your bullet right, aim left using the lines (e.g., “1 MRAD left” = 1st line on the left).
When to Use the Reticle vs. Dialing
- Use the Reticle: For quick shots (e.g., competition, hunting). Just hold the line instead of twisting dials.
- Dial Adjustments: For slow, precise shots (e.g., sniping). Turn the scope’s elevation/windage knobs instead.
7. Pro Tips
- Practice: Shoot at paper targets to see where your holds actually hit.
- No Chronograph? Guess bullet speed using box data, then adjust after testing.
- Use FFP only: The reticle stays the same size at all magnifications (1x-8x). Use the “tree” at 8x for tiny far targets!
Common Mistakes People Have With FC DMX Style Reticles
“I thought the hash marks work like a magic distance ruler!”
- Mistake: Assuming the MIL hash marks (e.g., “2”, “4”) automatically match specific distances (like 200yd, 400yd).
- Reality: The FC-DMX reticle measures angles (MILs), not fixed distances. Your bullet’s drop determines how many MILs to hold.
- Example: A “2 MIL” hold might = 300yd for one bullet but 275yd for another.
- Fix: Use a ballistic calculator to match your ammo’s drop to the reticle’s MIL marks.
“I forgot the reticle shrinks/grows when I zoom!”
- Mistake: Not realizing the reticle scales with magnification (FFP = First Focal Plane).
- At 1x, the reticle looks small; at 8x, it’s big.
- Reality: The MIL measurements stay accurate at all magnifications.
- Fix: Practice holding over 1 MIL at 1x and 8x to see how it works.
“Windage? I just aim dead center…”
- Mistake: Ignoring the horizontal windage marks (the “branches” on the Christmas tree).
- Reality: Wind pushes bullets sideways! The horizontal marks let you hold left/right.
- Example: A 10mph crosswind might need a 1 MIL hold. Use the left/right hash marks.
- Fix: Learn basic wind calls (e.g., 1 MIL per 10mph at 500yd) or use a wind meter.
“Why isn’t my zero working?!”
- Mistake: Zeroing at the wrong distance or not confirming it. Plus bad mount
- Example: Zeroing at 100yd but using the reticle’s holds for 300yd without testing.
- Reality: A bad zero throws off all your holds.
- Fix: Zero at a common distance (e.g., 100yd) and confirm with a 3-shot group.
“I didn’t need a cheat sheet…”
- Mistake: Not using a DOPE card (Data On Previous Engagements).
- Reality: Without notes, you’ll forget how many MILs to hold for 400yd in the field. Do not treat it like a BDC reticle, it's not the same
- Fix: Write down your holds for each distance (e.g., 300yd = 3.2 MIL) and tape it to your rifle.
“Treating MILs and MOA the same"
- Mistake: Mixing MIL and MOA (e.g., dialing MOA adjustments on a MIL reticle).
- Reality: 1 MIL ≠ 1 MOA. 1 MIL ≈ 3.6” at 100yd, 1 MOA ≈ 1” at 100yd.
- Fix: Stick to one of them only. Stick with what you are comfortable working with. Do not mix up two different units in your calculation
